Bryan Gryka With Milt’s BBQ for the Perplexed

Intro: [00:00:04] Broadcasting live from the Business RadioX studio in Chicago, Illinois, it’s time for Chicago Business Radio brought to you by Firmspace, your private sanctuary for productivity and growth. To learn more, go to Firmspace.com. Now here’s your host.

Max Kantor: [00:00:21] Hey everybody, and welcome to Chicago Business Radio. I’m your host, Max Kantor. And before we jump into today’s story, I just want to point out that today’s show is sponsored by Firmspace. Without Firmspace, we couldn’t be sharing these important and interesting stories, so big shout out to them, and I’m excited to talk to the guest that we have today. He is the President, General Manager, Executive Chef and most importantly, the dishwasher of Milt’s Barbecue for the Perplexed in Chicago, Illinois. Please welcome to the show, Bryan Gryka. Welcome to the show, Bryan.

Bryan Gryka: [00:00:54] Hey, guys, how’s it going?

Max Kantor: [00:00:56] So just to jump in. Why don’t you tell us a little bit about Milt’s barbecue for the Perplexed?

Bryan Gryka: [00:01:02] Okay, I guess the short answer is we’ve been open for eight and a half years. We opened in January 2013. We’re in the very dead center of East Lakeview. If you’re in Chicago, about a mile from Wrigley Field and we’ve been rocking and rolling for quite a while now, we have some great support from the community and we’ve weathered the storm through COVID over the last year or so, and we’re still here.

Max Kantor: [00:01:28] That’s great to hear. How did you guys get started all the way back in 2013?

Bryan Gryka: [00:01:33] It was a process. So for people that don’t know we are a kosher restaurant and there’s a big dearth of kosher restaurants in the city of Chicago. We’re actually the only ones left the south of Rogers Park, the northern area of the city. When we opened eight years ago, there were a couple of other restaurants, but they’re not around anymore. But there is a little bit of a Jewish community around here, and there was a need for something like what we are offering. And you know, we you know, the former owner, Jeff Ader, spearheaded it. He funded the entire venture and there was a big groundswell of support. And you know, as I say, the rest is history.

Max Kantor: [00:02:12] Now I’m Jewish myself, so I’m kind of embarrassed to ask this question. But what is the difference between non-kosher barbeque and kosher barbecue?

Bryan Gryka: [00:02:23] I mean, that’s that’s a loaded question I could give, the short answer is, you know, most people know that pork isn’t kosher, so obviously we don’t have any. Many know that we don’t have mixed milk and meat, so we don’t have any dairy at all on premises. They are dairy restaurants. There are some restaurants that have separate milk and meat kitchens, but we’re all meat. We do a lot of beef, a lot of chicken, poultry, other poultry sometimes, and it gets a little more complicated than that. There are certain levels of kosher. So we’re on the stricter side. We’re certified kosher by the Chicago Rabbinical Council. So it they’re very supportive of us and it enables us to have the widest market that I think we can capture in terms of people that keep kosher and then obviously people that don’t. We try really hard not to advertise overtly that we’re, you know, hey, we’re a kosher restaurant. You know, we try to be a restaurant first that happens to be kosher, which, you know, for people that do keep kosher, that’s been lacking for many years. You know, it’s it gets very complicated when you really get into the politics behind it.

Max Kantor: [00:03:32] Hmm. Is kosher barbecue a national thing or is what you guys do? Very niche and very unique, and there’s not many restaurants like you.

Bryan Gryka: [00:03:41] So when we opened, there was one other kosher barbecue restaurant that has that closed years ago in Teaneck, New Jersey. So we are the longest standing one since then. There’s been actually quite a few. Barbecue is very hip these days, so there’s a half a dozen places in the New York area. There’s a couple in the Miami area. There’s some Los Angeles. I mean, it’s really just booming because, you know, people see that it works. It’s very hard to keep a restaurant surviving in general. And then when you bring in, you know, the cost of kosher food and then the restrictions, you know, we have a lot of days off. Just this week alone, we were the Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. You’ve been closed the last few days. We’re just opening up now and we have a lot of holidays coming up this month that we’re missing most of September. So it’s very difficult to keep restaurants functioning. But you know, it’s it’s working and you know, people are trying to copy our model, which, you know, some people ask me if I’m bothered by it. I think it’s great. I think, you know, we show a business model that works and we were able to succeed. It’s really nice to see that others, you know, try to emulate that. That’s the sign of, you know, real success, I suppose.

Max Kantor: [00:04:51] Now I know in the Jewish community, brisket is such a big and important food in the culture. Is brisket kind of the go to dish at Milt’s?

Bryan Gryka: [00:05:01] Yeah, actually. You know, it’s funny. There’s I’ve actually talked a lot about brisket when I give lectures or other talks. We do a lot of brisket and wraps our beef ribs. I like them more, to be honest, just because they’re unique. They’re very beefy. And there’s even in the non-Pro. So there’s very few places in Chicago that do beef ribs at all. But in terms of brisket, yeah, I mean, it’s brisket was considered the garbage cut for such a long time that it was dirt cheap and that, you know, there’s a lot again, political stuff involved. You know, the Jews in Europe, we’re kind of stuck with the leftovers and a lot of ways and brisket was part of that. So we learned how to take a cheap cut and make it really good. And now it’s, you know, brisket is such a big part of Americana. If you go to Texas, it’s brisket everywhere. There is beef country. But if you look at what we’re doing, it’s actually it’s a great touch and it works really well. There’s so many things in its favor and you know, it’s it’s it’s perfect for barbecue and we love cooking it.

Max Kantor: [00:05:58] It is perfect for barbecue. And I got to say brisket is my favorite cut of meat and my favorite thing to get from a barbecue restaurant. So to hear you talk about it, I mean, I’m over here starving for food. This interview’s got me so hungry. But you know, moving on from food, the most obvious question I have for you is, who is Milt?

Bryan Gryka: [00:06:18] So I mentioned our former owner, Jeff Ader. So he just sold the restaurant to us about a year ago, and I can talk about that later. But Milt was his uncle who, like Jeff likes to say, was the irreverent guy that you never got married or had kids. And he was the one that was like, super fun. So he was the one that went well. While Jeff and his siblings were teenagers, they would sneak them drinks there and try to teach them poker and things like that. Just, you know, he was the fun guy. And so he had a special place in Jeff’s heart, and he died years ago. I honestly don’t know when I’ve only seen the one picture. If you go to our website, there’s that one picture of Mel that’s literally, literally the only one I’ve ever seen. So he’s like, It’s definitely an enigma, for sure.

Max Kantor: [00:07:00] Wow. I guess everyone has that, you know, Uncle Milt in their life. Everyone has that person. So that’s super cool that, you know, he he named the restaurant after his uncle Milt. Now you mentioned that you recently acquired the restaurant a year ago. What was that process like and what led to that?

Bryan Gryka: [00:07:18] Well, I mean, COVID certainly messed a lot of things up and. So I like to joke now that Jeff knew when to sell high. So Jeff, a big part of the restaurant and Jeff’s personality, is he’s really big into philanthropy. You know, he’s got enough money at this point. You know, I don’t want to call it a midlife crisis, but he’s very at a point where he wants to give back, and he’s doing a lot of different ventures to give back to the community and to the world at large. And so Milt is part of that at the same time. So he funded the restaurant. You know, like most restaurants, we struggled at the beginning and we made sure that we stayed afloat. We were never at risk of ever shutting our doors. And then it got to a point. Over the last few years, the restaurant was in the black consistently and doing really, really well. And so he was like, You know, I’m giving back, you know, we were giving money to charity every single month. If you look at our website and if you look at our windows outside the restaurant, we were doing a charity of the month since we’ve opened. And so Jeff’s like, OK, well, I’m giving money to all these different organizations. Why not give it back to the employees? You know, it just seemed the natural step, and he was like, You know, I did my job did the Little Mary Poppins thing where he’s, you know, OK, my job here is done. You know, you guys are successful. You don’t need me any more. Here’s the keys and joy. And that’s kind of where that went. And you know, we announced that publicly in January of last year, and there was a few articles written about that. But, you know, for obvious reasons, the transition took a lot more time than we were expecting, just because of all the shutting down and the financial uncertainty. But we sealed the deal, you know, last year, and here we are.

Max Kantor: [00:09:01] That’s so great that you guys were able to make it through the pandemic, and I know it was so hard for so many restaurants. Was there ever a point during the pandemic where the future looked uncertain? You didn’t know kind of what was what and what changes did you make during the pandemic to make it through? Four Milt’s?

Bryan Gryka: [00:09:20] Yeah, so that’s a tricky one. You know, I tend to be more of the, you know, I’m very linear in the way I think, and I’m always trying to think of like worst case scenarios, which, you know, doesn’t help with my anxiety. But it certainly helps in terms of operational, which is one thing I think works in my favor in terms of running the place I’m always trying to think of, you know? The ways to make sure we don’t fail. So on one part of me, I was always worried how long the last what’s going to happen? I’m sure other business owners, the people that are listening to this. We’ve all had the same thoughts. You know, it’s very nerve wracking. It’s hard to sleep at night. But at the same time, we always knew we had Jeff support. And, you know, I always figured, you know, hey, maybe if it ever got really, really bad, I could be like, Hey, I need some cash. We can’t succeed, but we never got to that point, you know? You know, we definitely took advantage of cheap loans. You know, one thing that worked certainly in our favor was that we always did things by the book, you know, in terms of payroll and taking care of our employees. And, you know, with the PPP loans which were geared specifically on the way you know, payroll was done is that it worked for us for the restaurants that pay people cash or, you know, under the table, they got the short end of the stick when it came to the loans. We didn’t have that problem. So we definitely took advantage and it certainly helps. So, you know, the short answer after that long winded one is, yeah, we were. I was worried, but not really. We were never anywhere close to, you know, considering shutting the doors.

Max Kantor: [00:10:46] That’s great. That’s awesome to hear. And what are some dos and don’ts for people getting started and what you do for what you do in the in the restaurant industry? So someone who maybe wants to be a chef or eventually own their own restaurant,

Bryan Gryka: [00:11:02] That’s, you know, a lot of it is luck. I can’t lie right place, right time. You know, certainly, you know, that’s part of what happened to me. You know, I’m I don’t want to say I’m like, I’m an amazing chef where I’m really, really good at what I do or anything like that. I just, you know, I was right place, right time. I was I was the right fit for what they needed here. And so for a lot of people, it’s, you know, just work, you know, try your best to learn as much as you can be well-rounded. You know, I, you know, obviously, I have a cooking background, which I did for a long time. But you know, since I, you know, I always in my last jobs and everything, I tried really hard to pay attention to the books, the back end, all the paperwork for area of it because, you know, I had to quickly become general manager here and I had to learn all the operational side very quickly at the rest. And three different, you know, the chef was very right brain creative, you know, you’re you’re the one that’s always fighting the general manager to get a few extra bucks to pay for stuff in the kitchen, little things like that. And then the general manager side is like, the numbers guy is the one who’s, you know, trying to make the restaurant successful. So these two competing aspects, you have to be good at both. You have to really pay attention to the things that you’re doing. So there are people that really want to do it, you know, pay attention to different restaurants, look at, you know, get different jobs, you know, ask as many questions as you can. I have cooks and employees here where if they have questions, I will certainly answer them for them if they want to know what’s going on the operational side. I will teach them, you know, a big part of what I do is teaching. So pay attention, try to learn, really try to learn. That’s, you know, I don’t know how helpful of an answer that is.

Max Kantor: [00:12:44] No, that’s great. You know, it sounds like on the business side of things, you have a lot of hands and a lot of different pots. No pun intended. And you know, on the cooking side, ironically, you also have a lot of hands in a lot of different pots. Being the chef? So how do you? I know, you know, an important part of a restaurant as you want to keep innovating, you want to bring the new thing out to people to not get stuck, I guess. So how do you invent and innovate new recipes while also keeping in mind to stay kosher?

Bryan Gryka: [00:13:15] So that is a little tricky. I was a little more honestly, since the COVID stuff, I’ve streamlined a lot and I’m a lot less willing right now to take risks in terms of, Hey, here’s a special because, you know, meat prices and everything are skyrocketing, business is down and we were less able to weather, you know, major losses on specials and food. So, you know, people ask me why I don’t do duck specials and I’m like, Well, Coach the Coach dog is seven bucks a pound. That means, you know, each bird is 50 bucks and you know, you just do the math, but I’m doing, you know? You know, I had to sell each duck entree for like one hundred dollars. People are going to spend that right now. So I think having a being very cognizant of what people are willing to spend, you know, just as an example today, specifically, I have a lot of extra picks from the holiday and I needed to find a use for them. And so, you know, one suggestion was, Hey, let’s do a fig bread pudding, because that tastes really good. And I’m like, I would eat that. I think it would be very good. I don’t think it would sell.

Bryan Gryka: [00:14:13] And so I’m turning right now. It’s working in the kitchen is I’m turning to figs into a big comfy and I’ll try to find a different dessert. But one thing is I don’t want to waste it. And number two is, I will. I want to preserve it so I can save it for a dessert I think would work like a nice fall. Dessert awaits the weather to change. And so I think part of it is being creative in minimizing waste. And you hear people talking about that all the time is minimizing waste and being very focused on that. And so I’ll find a good use for it. But you know, being creative but not wasteful is really tricky. When we’re successful and doing really well, it’s a lot easier to control. But yeah, I just I can’t I can’t risk doing a bunch of like, you know, veal chops right now. If I’m only able to sell one or two a night and then what do I do with the leftovers? Like, you know, there’s a limit to that creativity, to the point where you just either have old meat or you’re making stock or some random stuff because you don’t know what else to do.

Max Kantor: [00:15:08] Mm hmm. How do you create a community not only for your customers coming in, but for your employees as well?

Bryan Gryka: [00:15:18] So for the employees, you know, we have a very we’ve we’ve treated them well, I mean, you know. With all the closures and stuff you think about September and then the we’re closed for most of this month and even there’s other days, you know, there’s a couple of weeks earlier in the calendar that are, we’re all so closed. And so one thing I’ve been very cognizant, cognizant of doing is saving cash and trying to find ways to be able to support our staff even when we’re closed or not working. But they know that they’re being supported and never going to be, you know, nickel and dime. You know, I’ve worked in corporate, I’ve worked in a lot of places where, you know, it’s like if it’s time to, you know, time to lean, time to clean, and people and the employees will nickel and dime their low paid staff, which. I have a very, very hard time with, you know, we have employees making, you know, minimum wage or just a hair above it and your nickel and diming, you know, little quarters of an hour, you know, with them. And I think that’s a very caustic and work environment. And I think that’s showing now in the labor workforce right now. You hear all over the place where restaurants are struggling to find employees and all these other delivery drivers and all these other quote unquote low paying jobs who’ve been basically abused for the most part for decades. And now they feel that they’ve got some power and they’re kind of going against that. We have weathered that. We haven’t haven’t had any issues. I haven’t been trying to hire because I made sure my employees were employed the entire time. They never nickel and dime their hours. If they get overtime, congratulations, you earned it. And that’s the way they get rewarded. And then part of it is we also make sure that we give back to them financially and otherwise.

Max Kantor: [00:17:01] Well, it sounds like you’re creating a really, really great environment to work at, at Milt’s. And so for anyone listening, people who are want to come try the restaurant and order the delicious food that you’re making. What’s the best way people can research you and find you?

Bryan Gryka: [00:17:17] Obviously, our website would be the first place to go. Covid WW Milt’s BBC.com. We’re pretty active on our Facebook page. Not so much on Instagram, but you know, I’m really poor with that. But yeah, you can see our menu, Google, our menus all up there. We got lots of pictures and we have people talk about us and we’re here. Come on. By now we’re we’re out. We’re open most of the time.

Max Kantor: [00:17:42] Yes, definitely for sure. And Brian, real quick, right before we sign off, I’m just curious, what’s your favorite thing to cook at Milt’s?

Bryan Gryka: [00:17:50] My favorite thing to cook. Probably, you know, either family meal, which is usually some version of chicken and potatoes or off the menu. I’m a really big fan of our half chicken. We’ve been awarded a few times for our smoked chicken. Yeah, it’s excellent. And I’m a big fan of it and I’ll eat it over and over again. It’s the one item I never gotten sick of.

Max Kantor: [00:18:12] Oh, awesome. Well, I’m excited. The next time I’m in Chicago, I’ll be sure to stop by Milk’s barbecue for the perplex. Brian, thanks so much for being on the show today.

Bryan Gryka: [00:18:19] Thank you very much. I appreciate it

Max Kantor: [00:18:21] And thanks everybody for listening to another episode of Chicago Business Radio. I’m your host, Max Cantor, and we’ll see you next time.

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